This week, the Race Across the World starts from Ulgii. Tucked into the far western corner of
Mongolia, close to the borders of Russia and China, it's one of the most remote towns on earth - and one of the most quietly extraordinary.
This is Kazakh Mongolia, where a different culture, a different language and a different way of life have survived largely untouched by the outside world. Here, families still hunt with golden eagles, the ancient art passed from parent to child across generations.
From Ulgii the route pushes east - across one of the emptiest landscapes on the planet, through steppe that stretches further than seems reasonable, past terrain that has barely changed in centuries. Mongolia has over 20,000 kilometres of roads, and only around 1,600 of them are paved.
At the end of it lies Kharkhorin. It doesn't look like a capital. But eight hundred years ago, this quiet valley in central Mongolia was the centre of the largest empire the world has ever seen. Genghis Khan built it from nothing. His successors filled it with traders, diplomats, scholars and envoys from every corner of the known world - silk from China, furs from Russia, messengers from the Pope. For a brief, extraordinary moment, all roads led here. Then the empire fractured, the city emptied, and the steppe took most of it back.
Today, Erdene Zuu Monastery stands on its ruins - the oldest Buddhist monastery in Mongolia, its white walls and traditional stupas rising from the open valley floor. The Orkhon River moves quietly past. The UNESCO-listed valley stretches out in every direction, ancient and unhurried, carrying the weight of everything that happened here without making a fuss about it.
The racers will pass through in days. Mongolia has a way of making you wish you'd stayed longer.
Our
Best of Mongolia tour takes 15 days to cross this country properly - from the Gobi Desert to the Flaming Cliffs, the singing sands of Khongoryn Els and the wild horses of Khustai National Park, with Kharkhorin and the Orkhon Valley at its heart. Fully escorted, fully inclusive, and unhurried enough to actually feel it.